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Tuesday, 12 June 2012

Norway, A Great Trip To Lofoten. Part 6: Lofoten

Word of Norway means "the way to the north." That's the way we keep to the north of Lofoten. Today - the heart of the Norwegian North of Lofoten. 

Our first day: 

A. The area of ​​the archipelago is 1227 km ², and its population - 24.5 thousand people. The main classes of inhabitants - fishing and sheep farming. Norway is the least populated all countries in Europe. On average, her per capita is 12 square kilometers of territory. The population of the whole of Norway is approximately the same quarter of the population of Moscow. Imagine how much space they have for life and liberty? 

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Two. Lofoten (dr.skand. Lófót) - sometimes confused, incorrectly calling "lofonteny." The word consists of two parts: ló 'trot' and Old Norse fótr 'stop'. Apparently, the shape of the islands looked like a foot trot. In the picture - a beautiful and unique Hemney. 

Three. The Lofoten Islands for nearly a thousand years there have been cod fishing, especially in winter, when the cod migrates south from the Barents Sea and Lofoten is going on in the spawn. Caught cod is redirected to Bergen, a major city in the south-west Norway, and from there goes to the rest of Europe. These are the poles, great design, and are used for drying cod. In the summer, unfortunately, they are mostly empty - and you can see the dried fish only in a museum ... 

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4. In the fjords on the vertical timbers placed sheds (called "stabbyur") for drying and storing fish, for storage of fishing equipment and boats, as well as a bath with an open hearth ("badstyue") and the barn for drying grain. Traditional construction - with a gable roof. Above the boardwalk before it was covered with birch bark and turf. Now, of course, win new material, but before doing so, almost all residents. And old houses (and many have survived since the last century) often seen with a timber roof. Log-trimmed interior and exterior vertical set by the boards. Architraves, cornices, and sometimes ridge house (stuve) were coated with intricate carvings.

Five. Stuve, painted in traditional red, green or blue, with white aprons, and the ends of the log cabins, and now look very picturesque in the background of severe Lofoten peaks. A fishing villages are located along the banks of Lofoten, with typical fisherman's hut ("Rohrbach"). 

6. Lofoten - the oldest rock formations on Earth, their age is about 3 billion years. Their present shape was formed 10,000 years ago, when the last Ice Age ended. 

7. The most popular islands, Eustvogey, Vestvogey, Flakstad and Moskenes are the favorite place for writers and artists, as well as all lovers of the outdoors. Most Norwegians are coming here from the southern city just relax, go fishing, hunting. 

Eight. Bridges Norway surprising: with wide aisles, and massive, but at the same time looks very easy - they lie between the fjords, creeks. This, of course, the famous Stortezandsky bridge, stretching into the sky, but also beautiful. At this point, I remember an interesting incident that happened with my friend, Dima at this junction. We slipped a little bit forward, but he caught up with us - and went wrong (just to the side of the bridge: apparently, he liked the landscape). And I'm left with a mountain just to see how my team is going in one direction, and Dima - to another. Well, nothing, then Sasha "vtopil" - caught up with Dima ... 

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9. At any stop is the area for recreation, observation platforms and towers for bird watching and cycling holiday houses and cafes. Some recreational remind entire architectural monuments, well-fitting into the landscape (straight, sharp lines, wood and concrete). And some - easier: 

10. Lofoten Islands are also called "Lofotveggen" or the "Lofoten Wall". The archipelago looks like a closed wall, about 100 kilometers in length and 800-1000 meters high. 

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11. It seems to me that due to production of fish for the whole of Norway and export, which involved all the Vikings since the 15th century, the country is now the richest in the world (except for humans). Traditionally cured Lofoten cod is available in Spain, Portugal and Italy, where it can be found in abundance on the menu.Maybe it's because fishing requires a lot of patience, work and respect for the natural resources? Speaking of respect for nature: the fish are grown this way, in the enclosures. While all around - the open sea with the "inexhaustible riches ..." 

12. In general, to move around the Lofoten Islands by bike is easy, but in high season, the roads were filled with cars, vans and trailers. All are very decent, but the roads - narrow and sometimes accumulate in our cap. Very nice white beaches Lofoten. Step on the sand - and it seems that under our feet - the snow ... The soul is at rest, when you see the azure sea, the peaks of the mountains, feel the soft sand. 

13. In Lofoten you will find many cozy cottages, "Rohrbach". Originally, these houses were just for the night fishermen. In fishing villages, you can see the big building at the pier («sjøhus»), which was once the fishermen kept their catch. You can stay in camping, hotel or youth hostel. Prices very reasonable (by Norwegian standards, of course ;)). So, remove Rohrbach will cost around 100 euros per night. 

14. During the cycling route constantly have to climb. And in the dull gray day (and there was a big part of it) makes it sometimes lost in thought, somehow forget about the surrounding mountains, fjords and valleys ... And in this place was wonderful blueberry fields. Also interesting: everywhere in the wooded areas have fences and obstacles on the road for the sheep. Obstacles - pipes, laid so that the sheep will fall through the hooves through them, which should discourage them to continue to walk. A fence seems to be under stress (do not want to try). 

15. Sometimes the weather does deteriorate - and feel that for you in the darkness watching the troll ... 

16. At the Lofoten miracles do not end: on the way there are beautiful lakes and rivers. Once I saw a sign on turstoyanke with the inscription "In all waters of Norway can drink water." 

17. The hotel theme for the story - it is low tide in the fjord. Of course, he is very spoiled, "photogenic" places: brown algae, the remains of the ships, gray surface of the sand instead of water. But as it turned out, through the fjord at low tide you can drive on a bicycle! So I - Dennis took the bike with wide tires - and went to go all over the fjord at sunset (2 hours a night, almost the polar day). So ended our first day in Lofoten. 

18. The next day the route was as follows: 

19. Once again the weather. Here it is: gray clouds hanging over the islands - and do not want to leave. Then save that I had waited a little fellow, and managed to catch the light. Apparently, this old carcass a ship abandoned on the beach by storm. 

20. Lofoten islands - one of those places in Norway, where life is intertwined with nature, with the sea. According to the magazine National Geographic, Lofoten Islands are the third most attractive of all the islands of the globe. 

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21. If you are traveling by car, you can pass through Finland to the Arctic. Then you can look at the most northern point in Europe - Cape North Cape ... And it is best to go back to the shore, through all the fjords of Norway. 

22. Winter in Lofoten is warm enough, despite the fact that the islands are located above the Arctic Circle. These high winter temperatures are characteristic of the islands because of the warm Golf Stream and its derivatives: the North Atlantic Drift and the Norwegian Current. Rest on the islands and Verey winter temperatures often above zero, which is not typical for all areas located above the Arctic Circle. In the summer it is cool enough, but dry. The average July temperature is +15 ° C.Often, a strong wind blows. 

23. Above the ground in the summer midnight sun never sets. The Lofoten Islands, this phenomenon can be observed from May 25 to July 17. We were just the first few days and ended up in this "wonderful" day and night. For photos, it's terrible - no sunsets or sunrises, just a constant Khmara in the sky. 

24. And this is a mystery to you. I declare the contest for guessing the purpose of this facility. The answer - in the next part of the story about the Northern Islands Norway. 

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25. At found an interesting story about Lofoten: 
The captain told us that all fishermen are very superstitious, and respect the signs: 
- Can not start the fishing season on Friday. Never. 
- You can not whistle. 
- No waffle cakes. 
- Never to utter the word "horse." 
- Can not be called halibut halibut. 
- When the black bird sits on a mast, it is necessary to cut off all the network and go back. Here, Harald said, "I did not do it, but my father did." 
- For successful fishing it is necessary to spend the night with a beautiful girl. Then the captain sighed: "It was so early ...". 
( en.html ) 

26. One of the churches in the suburbs Svelvaera on the shore of the fjord. 

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27. Near the church was lying "Trollshtayn" - stone trolls. Tell them about Norway and did not mention the troll - is unforgivable. 
The legends of trolls originated in Scandinavia. According to legend, they scare the locals for its size and witchcraft. According to other legends trolls lived in castles and palaces underground. In mythology, trolls are not only huge giants, like ogres, but small, dwarf-like creatures that usually live in caves (such trolls is usually called the forest). Details of the image of the troll in folklore is strongly dependent on the country. Sometimes they are described variously, even in the same legend.Most often, the trolls - the ugly creature, from three to eight feet tall (sometimes can change its size) is almost always an attribute of the exterior of the troll in the images is a very big nose. Have the nature of the stone (born out of the rock), turn to stone in the sun. They eat meat. Most people eat. They live in one of the caves, woods or under bridges. The trolls under bridges are somewhat different from the ordinary. In particular, it may appear in the sun, do not eat people, they respect the money, are susceptible to human women (see in them a meal). There are legends about the children of women troll and human. (Wiki) 
With the Christianization of Norway at the troll has a new enemy - St. Olav. Olav had a special gift: he could control the mountains and rocks, was able to pay the troll into stone. Subsequently, the Giants were trying to deal with the churches. 

28. There are stories that trolls sometimes appear among men in human form. Usually a person can not immediately figure out whom to deal. However, it is recommended that, if he suspects that something was wrong, in any case should not reap a stranger's hand. They can also take shape of a dog, a black goat or a friendly person with a tail. The main thing - to know how to handle them. First, keep the secret of his name. Do not take treats from the troll and run away so that your tracks formed a cross with a plow to plow borosie. If you have met in the valley, invite you to follow the troll to the light, he turned to stone with the appearance of the sun. 
When you go on the roads of Norway, the clouds are gathering over the mountains, and darkness falls - really begin to think about trolls ... 

29. Trolls are often kidnapped people. However, the folk tradition has provided several ways to defend against trolls, or oppose them. First of all, this is, of course, the Christian cross, the sound of church bells, and anything else that is connected with the Christian religion. If it was necessary to free the captive from the Troll Mountains, we had to ring the bell. If the church was so far away that is not up to the mountains came the sound of bells, the bells brought to the mountains and called there. Sasha, I later in Moscow, even gave a wonderful book about trolls, which very clearly explains how to deal with them. Photography - just about dusk descending over the fjord: 

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30. And another picture of the outgoing light: 

31. On the northern lands of almost nothing grows. Norwegians just mow the grass from the fields - and sell it for animal feed. Grain fields, we have not seen ... 

32. For one day in Lofoten you can get through a lot of scenic spots. Each of them wants to stay at least a whole week. Maximum - for life. 

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33. Sometimes it is not clear where it ends lake and fjord begins. Until you try to taste the water or not look at the shore - do not know. Sometimes mixed with river water from the fjord. 

34. Our second day came to an end. Trolls like not there, so go to bed. Although the desire to take a picture of a troll is still alive. And our next day started: 

35. The day so far has broken all records for inclement weather and boring. Again the tide in the fjord, the giant desert. 

36. In the spring on the coast of Norway, on the way north to the Arctic nesting, millions flock of birds. In places such as Yeren, south of Stavanger, you can watch the loon, grebes, herons and other wild birds. In the dreary gray day, I decided to arrange a photo-hunting on these birds here. What kind of bird - I do not know. 

37. By the way, that photography was my first, just before the trip I bought a nikkor 70-300. 

38. In July and early August, the Lofoten banks are overgrown with grass and Ivan tea. On a rainy day, they added a good color in the landscape. 

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39. Norwegian tunnels are very famous. How much work is necessary to construct a number of tunnels for the convenience of its citizens? It seems that if some of the fishing village of my grandmother wants to go for berries is not the pass - the government specifically for her to build a tunnel. 
By the length of the tunnels Norway is breaking all records. Camym longest road tunnel in the world is a Norwegian mountain tunnel Laerdal (24,5 km.), Which is part of the highway connecting the capital of Norway, Oslo and Bergen, western port of the country. 
Frankly, those feelings again, when you enter the underwater tunnel: going down for about 15 minutes without pressing the pedal with only one thought - how much and then turn up! A healthy bottom: wet walls, drops dripping from the ceiling. Noise on the stones of the walls of the tunnel ... Some - not venteliruyutsya (even at 3-5 km!). And obviously you feel a lack of oxygen. 

40. Yes, and you can remove the gray day something unusual. For example, here's a great panorama of the ordinary lake. 

41. The day ends. Not rich to "catch", just nice. Again the steam inlets, lighthouses, mountains ... At night, get up right near the shore, rising slightly from the ferry station. With views of the fjord. 

42. On this day we planned to climb Moysalen, big mountain over the fjords. 

43. But it did not work: over the mountains - the clouds. Pokrapyvaet rain. We would like nothing was visible at an altitude of more than a kilometer. It is a pity. But there is a reason to return. 

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44. Norway is the weather. The sun and the rocks - it would be too misleading. 

45. In many parts of the Lofoten - nobody. On a cloudy day life as if frozen. Peace and quiet. 

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46. We leave on the first coat to Zigelfordu. Near the road - marshes and swamps in the house ;) 

47. That's our primer. On the asphalt drive tired. Although the roads in Norway are very good. It is surprising how they manage to keep in such good condition pavement. After all the rain wash away, and the rock moves. 

48. In the evening there was a heavy rain. We all got soaked to the skin. But the spirit we have not been broken. The award - a beautiful sunset. 30 minutes over the fjord wonder of the world. 

49. Dripping rain, the sun shines bright rays of the heavy leaden clouds. 

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49 (2). And one more shot: 

50. Shades of green are replaced every minute. 

51. This river, flowing into the fjord, from the other side of the fjord. The clouds sit on the hill ... 

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52. The rays of the setting sun ... The miracles did not end there. We would have been drier in the "Hütte", a house in the mountains, especially for tourists and hunters. But, unfortunately, Hutte was busy that day. And we have already gathered upset as we were approached by a local hunter and invited to live in his house.He apologized to us for a long time, saying, saying, guys, I do not have a toilet and a very small house. But we were amazed at how everything is neatly done.Wood, for the first week of soft beds, warm the batteries. That it was a gift to us. But we did not stay in debt. Prepared his morning pancakes with blueberry jam, just made. However, we have them, and he fed. And met the morning with his curious little spaniel. 

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53. Here's our next day. The route we decided to cut: no time. We decided to take a night high-speed ferry from the right in Harshtadta Finnesnes at Senya. 

54. In the morning went down to the fjord, and sat on the ferry. The ferry was just something for 10 minutes, but the "luxury" there was the traditional (remembering Sebastopol steam with wooden benches.) Any steam is usually decorated with paintings by local artists. Make sure there is also a cafe with traditionally high prices.

55. This day is now just broken all records on the "gray". These are the tranquil scenery replaced the other one. 

56. Almost fall asleep on the run from an idyllic ... 

57. During the day we arrived in Harshtadt, walked around the city, and in the evening had already boarded the ferry, which took us like the wind in Finnesnes. Sam walks up to the ferry point of our purpose - to Tromso. But we have ahead Senya and Lyngen Alps! The ferry does not load, goes very quickly - cutting through the surface of water. It is amazing to look out the window, how fast it cuts the waves and picks up speed, like a plane on the runway. 

Evening - we're already on the "Seine" ... On this island - a separate story in the next section.

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