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Sunday, 12 February 2012

Travel To Turkey 4

Istanbul. At metrobuse from Europe to Asia

I then immediately after the arrival of the virus fell, unfortunately, so few now publish the material. Oklemayus - will be larger, because and brought a lot of interesting things, and hang in front of a series of Trans-Siberian Novosibirsk, too, should be continued.
And yet - assembled from three pieces of video on the metrobuse travel from Europe to Asia. On that same bridge that crossed the Bosphorus first in 1973 and joined the two continents. The height of the bridge over the Bosphorus - 64 m, which is identical to the height of the bridge under construction in Vladivostok across the Golden Horn, and more than 10 m below the second Vladivostok, through the Eastern Bosphorus.
What metrobus? More, I'll show it to the post about urban transport in Istanbul, and for short - is such a big shuttle bus (mersedesovskogo manufacturing) that are dedicated to the band pairs, one-for-another, with an interval of about 30 seconds, with good speed, and connect Istanbul chord sleeping areas in Europe and Asia. It turns a subway train in two physically separate buses, equivalent to about 3 or 4 cars of the subway. They do not go to the center, and gently curved trajectory of 3-5 km from the center - the E-5, encircling this 11,000,000th metropolis. People in many metrobusah on weekdays, there is also overcrowded.

In general, there are three parts are sewn - a) The congress of the station metrobusa (there is a new area, a kind of analogue of the Moscow City), b) going down to the bridge, and c) actually travel from Europe to Asia. I was there briefly turned toward the camera and the Bosphorus, so that at 2:02 there is a second glimpse of a silhouette and even St. Sofia. Cypriots drove to my first shooting took cautiously, looked, asked me where I was, said that in Russia, so he relaxed, smiled, and then even tried to go more smoothly. Two guys in front (the bus was filled with good), too, have advanced to my visibility was better. So all in all, the people reacted to my shooting a friendly and understanding. At the end of the clip - entrance to the point of payment (bridge fee, but it crosses the metrobus naprohod without stopping).
All together, a little less than 4 minutes, turn, and HD-quality vezzhaet with me to Asia :)

Istanbul. Color and character of the city

This part of the narrative is devoted to the mentality of stambultsev noted by me, their habits, behavior, characteristics and nature of the city and in a sense, is mounting. The following parts have to be strung on this and consider only the pieces of the picture, and this - it shows in general. Well, in my possession there was a whole week - this is a normal life, but also because of the ensuing 5-day stay of the weather had to cancel a trip to Gallipoli, so I stayed in the city. And, accordingly, visited a number of places and regions.

The story about the city and its inhabitants turned out great, a lot of observations - so cut it, no meaningful break, it was not possible, and therefore have patience when reading. Just warning you in my story is no round-noses and popular points - and only real city in a normal environment. Things will be later.

Fishermen on Galata Bridge. In the distance, on a hill - the largest of the Ottoman imperial mosque, Suleymaniye

But first let us agree on terms. You have noticed what I call the city in different ways: that of Constantinople, and then Istanbul. This is not just so, and is under a historical basis.

So, Constantinople (for me) - this is a historic town on the southern shore of the Golden Horn, within Feodosievyh walls, washed by the Sea of ​​Marmara to the south. It is very large - for the ancient city, but the territory is only a fifth or a sixth part of the modern metropolis of Istanbul. But this part of Istanbul called I did not turn the language - there is too much rooted layer of another empire, which preceded the Ottoman. He conquered the city looks out there, one here, and not necessarily in the "historical" places - and we see that it's still not there to Istanbul. Despite the enormous imperial mosque and the late Ottoman buildings layer.

But all that is historic - Istanbul. He absorbed the Genoese Galata, and then raspostersya not only on the northern shore of Golden Horn winding, not just to the west of the Wall to the airport, but a large chunk of the Asian coast of the Bosphorus. You could even say so, that the city of Istanbul is now extending to the north right up to the Fatih Bridge (Second Bosporus) and includes a fortress, "Throat Slash" - which was built 560 years ago for a decisive assault on the Byzantine capital.
Therefore, with further questions about the use of the name of the city do not come to me, then I explained everything.

So, the first and main conclusion of my visit to the city: Turkey - it is not Europe. And even so: Istanbul (the most westernized city in the country, and Westernizing) - this is not Europe, but sometimes, in some of its parts, tries it seem. Quite clearly this is Asia. It also became clear why the EU rests on all hooves and does not accept Turkey into its ranks, pulls the bagpipes are struggling and do not recognize the equal honored member of NATO.

Why not? Because the flabby, loose and regulated by EU rules, if he accepts a suicidal decision to integrate the 73 millionth country, he would be "integrated" Asia after 20 years that way, or 25. Passion, a young and fast-growing Turkey, in this case just banal devour all of the Balkans and penetrate deeper into the German-benilyuksovskuyu territorial fabric - as the West Europeans for the most part fed up, cowardly and inactive, mainly secular materialists and shying away from the dirty work. Therefore, in our lives is no acceptance of Turkey into the EU will not happen 100%. This is a normal survival instinct of the neighboring subtsivilizatsii, is the way the Turkish world - as indeed, the Eastern Orthodox Slavic.

Also, I noticed during his tenure many features akin, and bring together Turkish and Russian / Ukrainian - as if the Slavs was not hurt by this. In terms of attitudes and the Eastern Slavs and Turks can not Europeans (except for a layer in the two capitals of both countries), the formal over-regulation of society there is much lower, the role of tradition - is much higher, the role of laws - the lower and the private space of the average person - is the European . But the average Turk was initially very friendly, respectful behavior, subject, and often spends his time, quite frankly, came to help tourists. Also, the Turks - in contrast to the Arabs - well below the passion to the ball "baksheesh", though here and there and there. And the bargain, too, have a passion - but also to inflame Arab below.

Two. What's immediately striking in Istanbul - is that (as in Russia) all night working shops, small business, there is no over-regulation, as in Europe - where a weekend or a Friday night is extremely difficult to find an open grocery store. City and in the evening neturisticheskih areas are not extinct, as Vienna, Brussels and Hamburg, and full-blooded lives. Look, this landscape - at Eminonu, near the Galata Bridge. Eat any different, even in a hot Saturday at midnight - no problem :-)

Three. Here's another feature. The Turks, on average a very straightforward in behavior (and far more Russian), and this is also evident. And this is manifested in various spheres of life - cafes, fishing, transportation, etc. Try to imagine, for example, that in St. Petersburg, somewhere on the Promenade des Anglais, sits a group of pals, zhget fire and nice talking :-)

4. The next feature of the local (and I suspect not only Istanbul) - relating to the formal rules, spelled in the documents, "carelessly." This also applies to behavior on the road - pedestrians, Turks sovershennno calm and do not respect traffic lights en masse, and go wherever the road, if there is free. And a vivid example of this - comes Bosphorus ferry ramp down gradually, but the Turks did not wait, can not stand - a massive jump straight to the bank with another neopuschennnoy ramps. And they do not care for any security. Then there is the phenomenon was observed repeatedly riding on ferries in different places, so it was not accidental.

Five. On the other hand, in places ceded to transport almost immediately, if, say, has gone a pregnant woman or old man. There is no so young sat and simulated sleep, if it hangs over the old man. By the general respect for the elderly is much higher than allowed by the average European standard of conduct.

6. Another striking ubiquitous presence of national flags. They come across almost everywhere, not just the state buildings. authorities. Also, I noticed a passion for the installation of huge Turkish flag poles with flags of the iconic places - such as the commanding heights of the city, near the main bridge, on the headlands, etc. It turns out the flag from them, given that its state history goes back nearly 200 years - it is rooted and popular. And before 1793 the Ottoman sultans flag was green. Star of the same (in the 5-end form) appeared on the flag in 1844

7. But the "Flag" an example of a completely neturisticheskom area for the adjoining walls Feodosievoy to the Golden Horn. And it just kind of auto repair shops, the most common object.

Eight. It is clear who is present in Turkey and elsewhere - even in the city, even in the suburbs. His photos and profile - in all schools, railway stations and stations, government offices, in the captain's cabin, in the army, and often even "just because" as a demonstration of loyalty. Somewhat earlier trip, getting acquainted with the history of the Republic, I was amazed at how much Atatürk in the 1920s and 30s reformatted Turkish society, and how far it got in the age-old tradition. If we take a parallel with us, Ataturk from the Turks - a mixture of Lenin and Peter the Great. He forbade the Ottoman clothing, fez, veil and forcibly "exposed" the Turkish woman, revealing her face and hands, and they recruited a lot of things. In general, a mass demonstration of a person in a portrait monument barelefa - runs counter to the Islamic tradition. But in Turkey so.

School on the Asian side of Istanbul

9. Here is the entrance to the government department: a district council or municipality on the territory of Constantinople, with the indispensable father of the Turks.

10. And that he - at the train station Sirkeci. By the way, he is in such form and with this maxim is present in all more or less important stations. Who is aware of the translation, write in the comments. I saw it somewhere but can not remember.

11. A complete reformat of life canons Ataturk had an impact on the admissibility of images of women in the clear. Here it is almost the same as in Europe. In advertising, announcements cinemas, shopping malls. However, it is not everywhere - some places are now being made concessions and the traditional canons, shy gravitating toward Islam as the next photo.

12. Here, for example, both types - option and "open" and "head covering". But in general, as I understand people's deep longing for the Islamization of very tightly controlled by the army, which is the basis of a secular regime.

13. On the money (shot "new lira"), you guessed it, too, is clear who is depicted - or in any way :-)

14. However, on the back of bills drawn by other workers - for the most part I am quite unfamiliar.

15. After MK Ataturk, the second and the cult popularity in the country is not some atatyurkovsky ally, and "Fatih" - Mehmed II the Conqueror, who stormed the Byzantine Constantinople in 1453-m and destroyed the imperial Byzantium as the state final. It turns out there is to it, and cartoons, and children's books and coloring books, and educational films. And the second bridge over the Bosphorus, too, named after the Fatiha. And near the gate, through which the Sultan rode into conquered the imperial capital, built a monumental panorama of events in 1453, designed primarily for the Turks. Return drive to the mandatory school and even pre-school children, nurturing patriotism. I am also going to show it, but later.

16. Actually, as I understand, the events of 1453 are emblematic of the Turkish identity, and for them in bookstores - the mass of literature. Many and DVD, and other types of information carriers.

17. Few of the facial features of the population. Then I dropped the old pattern - I noted with surprise that the population of Istanbul for the most part (not tourists!) Is not less than half of the European type. Either way - the Balkan-Hungarian. Turkic element heirs steppe - maybe 50% or even 40%. Perhaps this is the result of mixing of peoples in the imperial Ottomans. But it is precisely in Istanbul, so - if otehat on the train on the Asian branch, the ratio changes in favor of the Turk.

18. Many women and girls with a completely European character - again, without thinking about half. Meet this, for example, in Budapest, Ljubljana and Chernivtsi, and not at all surprised. And it's not a tourist, as some will assume - and local, she took CellPhones and talking in Turkish.

19. The degree of emancipation of women in clothes.
Istanbul - the city of Westernizing, open, country - a secular constitution, and to still the breath of Islam, with its traditions, yet secretly, but felt. I kept trying to bring the proportion of women fashion style - covered with a scarf / uncovered, but in different areas of the relationship varied greatly. On Istiklal - one in neboskrebnom area - the second in the Asian part - the third in Kumkapi - the fourth, etc. As a result of the same observations, on average, I can say this: young women - 20/80 in head scarves / no, elderly (over 45) - 70/30. That is, after reaching a middle-aged Turkish woman with a high degree of probability still wears a headscarf, "in society."

20. In the center is a high percentage of "bare" Turkish women, ie without a headscarf. By the way, Slavs (and even more people in the West) in the crowd are easily recognized by other than the Turks behavior and facial expressions - I almost never made a mistake in this matter. How much it turned out, it's hard to explain, but it is a fact.

21. As for the traditional female garment closed, adopted in the Islamic tradition (see), then in Istanbul, is a rarity. I think not more than 2-3% of women. This - the maximum and most likely - even lower.

22. That made the picture in the subway - about such an arrangement to cover the head scarf for women to 45 and there (see above).

Now, observations on the urban environment.

23. The most important thing for architecture, which was an amazing revelation for me - is that it Constantinople in the Byzantine borders completely disfigured no modern shit-haytechnymi remake, its skyline is absolutely solid and compared to the XIX century view has not changed in any way. If we consider that on the outskirts of govnohaytek growing very, very active, it must be admitted that this is the result of hard gradoohrannoy policy. I do not think that the earth was the center of cheap. Dominating the city, as in the XVI century, the imperial mosques were sinanovskie in the hills, and Hagia Sophia.

View of Constantinople and the Golden Horn from Galata Tower

24. But the view from the ferry at sunset - on the Cape with a lighthouse Palace, Blue Mosque and St. obminarechennuyu. Sofia. Probably much the same city saw with sailing ships and the XVIII century pilgrims on their way to the Holy Land.

25. Forest Istanbul neboskrebnogo high-tech growing at a considerable distance from Constantinople - I think at least 6-7 km from the St. Sofia. And then the next. Perhaps this is correct - looking at it, I immediately remembered gazoskrebnuyu epic in St. Petersburg.

View of the northern European part of the city

26. Another feature of the city, which I was very impressed - it is absolutely incredible Intensives ferry across the Bosphorus and Golden Horn. Ferry routes are many, they often go themselves rather big in size - and hence carry people very, very much. If you look at water areas above the height of the day, it can be seen at the same time moving from 3 to 6 ferries. I can not even remember all the cities, separated by water, so that there was such an intense message on the water. Can you recall counterparts.

27. As for the social contrasts, they are in Istanbul high - higher than almost all I've seen the European and Russian cities. The extent of contrast - from here such areas in the north ...

28. ... To slums in the historic center. Moreover, the entrails of this is not St. Petersburg's Kolomna, or even scary-depressive Pikalevo, namely the very real real slums garbage. I do not Zyalt and megapomoykami shock you will not, but they are there I came across. Here and there.

29. So, if you suddenly begin to treat the fact that Istanbul all such modern and progressive, do not believe. He - very, very, very different. And the contrast between different areas there are very large. Of course, there are many medium-sized and good areas. But the bottom is not too small.

Urban landscape near the coast in the Sea of Marmara district of Kumkapi

30. And of course, the poor stratum of the population there is a lot, despite the dynamic metropolis as a whole.

31. Inside Constantinople quite a lot of small remnants of the old civilization. And not necessarily in the tourist areas, and just like that. You go somewhere, paving the route - the broads, and the Byzantine masonry (by the way, I'm pretty sure it was distinguished by about the third day of stay). In the most unexpected place! Or gone to Eternity Church Orthodox empire, but not destroyed by these masters, and turned into a mosque, with minimal changes. Not even on its own is ...

Former. Byzantine church of the Virgin Kiriotissy, XII century


32. For a quick meal of Constantinople, now I have very strongly associated with three things: pomegranate fresh juice, bagels and boiled tea. On the case will be a separate post, but there do a lot of fresh and happy. Orange, grapefruit, but more - pomegranate. Juicy and pleasant, it seemed to me that he even tones.

33. And this is me in the tanks fresh pomegranate drink. Very romantic, you know - in a cave in columns VIII century the huge splash of fish, and you're sitting in a wooden balustrade and slowly sip the concentrated dark red drink ...)

34. Points with fresh juices there is a lot, find no problem. Good urban tradition!

35. Bagels. Also, apparently, a top city food. Bake them a huge number, they are fresh, crunchy, and I've bought on the way to the great delight of their consumed :-)

36. That's bagels are spreading, from bakeries to points of sale. Points - incredibly much right on the street, almost at every step. Apparently, the demand is huge.

37. Even more I liked bagels without the sesame seeds, that's like in this photo that close.

38. Also, a lot of corn in the streets, too, is sold everywhere, and popular. But I did not take it. And - roasted chestnuts, but these things I do not like, and somehow it happened that did not remove. All this food, agriculture bystroedyascheesya transported and sold in thousands of trucks like these.

39. Nuts are popular, but less than the above I have an entity. And again - dolly! This is also probably the symbol of Istanbul :-)

40. Goods put up in the streets, usually on the streets and the streets themselves are often "specialize" in commodities - cable, photographic, electrical, plumbing, etc. avntikvarnye

41. As for food, the great abundance of vendors with carts (bagels, nuts, corn, kebabs, etc.), apparently has its own implications. Immediate Turks always something to chew. And that when they eat more substantial - that without the issues and problems can consume large quantities of any food in an environment where European culture is enough Kondratiev. Moreover, the problem of debris and clean the Turks, too, do not bother - and are indifferent to it. Well, threw the remains on the ground - and dick with it.

42. So just eating and shopping lanes. In general, the quietly munching havchik Turks can come across in the most unexpected places, up to the Byzantine ruins.

43. But a group of women waiting for their ferry to the Asian shore of the Bosphorus - and also eat kebabs in the most unpretentious environment :-)

In brief, about the food in Istanbul, do not bother. Absolutely. You can always find food - even faster, though not much. In general, the mass Istanbul chews and eats on the go even in the most inhospitable places. At the same time, the food is usually tasty.

44. Another interesting sign of the city became for me a considerable presence of envoys from the Soviet past - the classic Ikarus 1980. Where are they, is unclear. But they are many.

45. Just a lot of catches and "basins" that the Russian foreign cars like stolichniki to look down with contempt. But the fact is that Turkey imported a lot of them and they come across avtopotoke regularly.

Such, in brief, what I would single out a particular city (public transport is not included here, of him will be a separate story). At the same time, remember that all observations - this is purely my personal opinion, and they do not relate to Turkey as a whole, but only the city of Istanbul. Also, I had no intention of offending people of the city, but simply highlighted the fact that I was impressed, and remember. In general - the city is incredibly interesting, however, this further.

In post pictures of Ivan Zelenova used (17, 30, 34, 36, 38)

To be continued.

0. Introduction
A. City of cats
Two. Russian and Turkish Consulate General, "the hammer and sickle"
3. On metrobuse from Europe to Asia (video)

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