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Monday, 13 February 2012

Travel To Turkey 5

Istanbul. Traffic urban ferries

Video application to the post about the flavor of Istanbul , more precisely on the photo number 26 post. Where we are talking about the intensity of traffic intercity ferries. The fact that traffic is really huge, you can see, watching this movie, especially the fragment with 0:41 to 1:40. And it is up to 90% is the regular City request about free transport, rather than for pleasure craft Turikov as St. Petersburg in the summer. How do they differ among themselves in such a terrible crush - I'll never know.
Prior to 1:41 - two passages, which I took from Galata Bridge, then - filming on board the ferry when I first crossed the Bosphorus. At 2:20 - a view of St. Sophia, which he opened with a mouth Golden Horn. Total duration of 2:39. Include HD-quality and enjoy korablegami :-)
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Current mood: Festival Nouveau

Istanbul. "European" Sirkeci Train Station

Now you should talk about both Istanbul / Railway station - Sirkeci (Sirkeci) in Europe and Haydarpasa (HaydarpaƟa) in Asia. It is clear that being in this city, both the train station, I always visited and photographed without haste. This is essentially a very interesting situation:
1) both built in the era of modernity and architectural fascination Orientalism;
2), both designed by the Germans;
3) they have never been linked rails: no bridge or tunnel, f / g network in Turkey has always been torn in half the Bosporus;
4) are both preserved in almost original form (!)
5) both - dead-end, run into the sea;
6) the results were both geopolitical projects Ottoman Empire.

Today - the story of the "European" station, which is older than its Asian counterpart for 20 years. So, Sirkeci, the eastern harbor of the legendary "Orient Express" ...

M / A deadlock in the Sirkeci train station, arrived Balkan Express. Then there is no way ...

Two. Sirkeci Station is located on the shore of Golden Horn Bay, at the bottom, just 1 km from the St. Sophia, located on the eastern hill of the historic part. Here he is seen on the right picture in the background. Levey Kennedy Avenue, just behind the scenes - the shore of the bay and the marinas. Ways to go not to the west, as you might think, not knowing the topography of Constantinople, and to the east. Then they round the Cape of the Palace, a couple of miles are along the Bosphorus, and finally deployed to the west, passing along the Sea of ​​Marmara.

Three. Of course, like any self-respecting station Sirkeci has its own steam-monument.

4. From the west, from the tram stop, train station looks very unassuming and it's easy to miss.

Five. The main station building is not built by the impasse, as Moscow and St. Petersburg train stations, and from the side, along the way, and drawn to the facade of the Golden Horn shore. Unfortunately, at the time of my visit the main facade was under restoration, and looked like this.

Construction of new station building began February 11, 1888. Station, which was initially called "The Station Myushir Ahmet Pasha," was opened November 3, 1890, replacing a temporary building. The author of the project was August Yahmund, Prussian architect, who gave a lecture at the Ecole Polytechnique in Istanbul. The building was equipped with the latest technology of the time, covered and heated with gas.

6. The central main entrance and main hall (inside).

6a. That's because the station is in a "normal" mode (snapshot from Wiki)

6b. Type of station in Ottoman times (end of XIX century, postcard). The main entrance and promenade - from the arrival of the "Orient Express".

7. On the facade - the real Arabic numerals, and not those of what we call in Arabic. Maybe they mean a year or the beginning or end of the building.

Before we look inside the station, let him "come." The way there are original: skirting the palace cape and curving up into 180 degrees. Historically: far from the center of the station building did not, and the Sultan Abdul Aziz resolved to pave the way (1870) in the park, framing Topkapi, breaking almost as much as the remains of Byzantine walls on the shores of the Sea of ​​Marmara and the Bosphorus. The walls and the remains of a medieval flavor while massively broken everywhere - in Vienna and in Paris and other European cities, so that Constantinople did not escape. So here goes the railroad, in the literal sense of the artifacts on the history of the world.

Eight. Thus, the view from the platform Kumkapi. Here they are along the Sea of ​​Marmara.

9. When you go along and watch the sea from the window of the train, we see accumulation of a variety of historic buildings. There were also pieces of Byzantine walls and structures that are about one and a half thousand years. As I said above, the construction of the road builders have broken remnants of the old Constantinople - or was it did not pave the shore.

10. But the remains of Byzantine walls - look to the east. This line is wraps, walking on the shore of the Bosphorus, and is visible far away Asia.

11. If you look to the north, on a hill can sometimes see and St. Sofia, which is absolutely dominant over all this high-altitude terrain dominates. However, the city skyline from the sea, I will show separately, it is not the topic of this post.

12. Then the line curving semicircle and came to the shores of the Golden Horn. We already drive to the station.

13. Well, that's profit. Now, with the farthest from the point of impasse will go to the station.

14. A platform for urban trains - they are here included in the citywide rate. Very convenient!

15. Train there is a new ...

16. And more ... mature. Older still prevail.

17. View of the main hall of a suburban railway station platform.

18. And finally, a dead end. Next move the trains do not.

19. At the very end - a mandatory Father of Turks with the mandatory utterance.

20. And an indoor room with access to the west, to the tram (see photo 4). For electric trains have to pass through the turnstiles.

21. A look back at a suburban platform.

22. But the main platform for long-distance trains can pass freely and besturniketno. It is low, as opposed to suburban. Now we see how the Bucharest-Budapest "Balkan Express". In general, long-distance trains there are vanishingly small, appears to only 2 or 3 and basically, this "grand" deserted and unfrequented platform.

23. Here, on this platform, and came the legendary "Orient Express" from Paris. I was very pleased that the Turks have kept the station of that era is almost intact, with the minimal intrusion of modernity. And, honestly, sometimes felt like a time machine (in a good way).

23a. But the route map of the "Orient Express" (from Wiki):

View on Yandeks.Fotkah

He regularly walked the same route to their (red) from 1889 to 1962. In 1883-89 only the land went to Varna, then the passengers followed the sea. When later introduced simplonsky version (1919), through Venice, this caused great resentment and jealousy of the owners of the "main" train.

23b. A sign of the classical "Orient Express" (from the Technical Museum).

24. Retained the famous (in the 1940s - 50s) in the writers and artistic circles of the city restaurant. He also called Orient-Express.

25. Station bell. They are announcing train departure.

26. In general, the main "orientovskoy" platform devoted 70% of the station.

27. Log in to the central hall.

28. Above the doors - stunning stained glass windows. Shall we go?

29. The main dining room. Now it is empty, as a museum. What was there before, can only guess

30. The general disposition, from floor to ceiling

31. The roof of the main hall.

32. And the way to the main platform. Everything is so carefully podrestavrirovano, and it looks really great! I went to the premises in a state of shock and aesthetic ofigevayu of a time machine.

33. In some places, stained glass "work" almost really quite fantastic. There is, further, there is a small Turkish muzeychik g / d Free.

34. Still, the work of stained glass. Another hall.

35. Evening view, exit to the west.

36. We leave out. The Turks have preserved even the original look of the old benches, as we have in the Vitebsk Station.

In general, the building is absolutely stunning in style. Fans of Art Nouveau and Orientalism - go here sure do not regret it and get estetitchesky shock!

But Sirkeci - it's still flowers. This masterpiece - it is his younger brother, Asia, which will be discussed in the next section.

To be continued.

0. Introduction
A. City of cats
Two. Russian and Turkish Consulate General, "the hammer and sickle"
3. On metrobuse from Europe to Asia (video)
4. Istanbul flavor and character of the city

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